Most people who go to San Juan, La Union only want to go to one place: Urbiztondo Beach, which has surf schools, coffee lines, and a lot of weekend energy that has been building up slowly over the past ten years. It is a nice spot. There’s no longer any peace and quiet. Barangay Taboc, which is about five kilometers north along the coast, has something that Urbiztondo has lost over time: the feeling that you found somewhere instead of arriving at it.
Taboc faces west and is on the West Philippine Sea. The sunsets here are the kind that make you stop talking in the middle of a sentence. The sunrise, on the other hand, surprises most first-timers. Since the beach faces west, there isn’t much to look forward to at dawn. However, the light wraps around in the early morning, catching both the water and the shoreline. Surfers testing the breaks at first light become part of the picture without even trying.
Surfing is a real thing. Intermediate surfers seem to really enjoy the bigger waves that come in the afternoons, and local instructors work the beach for beginners who want a less crowded lesson than Urbiztondo offers. This is helpful because there are fewer people in the water, teachers are more patient, and the beach doesn’t feel like it’s following a script. If La Union keeps getting more tourists, Taboc might have to deal with the same problems that changed Urbiztondo. It hasn’t yet.
Taboc is known as the Pottery Capital of the area, which is something that almost no other barangay in La Union can say. The Red Clay Pagdamilian is where this heritage is kept alive. It’s a spot where people can see how traditional techniques are used, try their hand at the wheel, and take home something made from local clay instead of something bought on a souvenir shelf. It’s obviously not as fast as surfing, but it gives you a sense of accomplishment that beach bars don’t. Making pottery here isn’t just a show for tourists. The people in the area have always done that.
The Majestic House on the Hill, or “balay ayanti tapaw” in the local language, is further into the barangay. It is a beautiful building on top of a hill that stands out against the skyline and draws the eye from almost any angle. It is said that the view goes from the Cordillera mountain range in the middle of the country to the sea. It makes more sense to stand there than to talk about it.
When it comes to places to stay, Taboc has a lot of options that won’t break the bank. This Balinese-Asian boutique hotel is located on the main highway, about a kilometer from Urbiztondo. It attracts guests who want a design-forward environment and a kitchen. The hotel’s restaurant, Curo, serves a variety of plant-based dishes at prices that feel fair. Seabreeze Beachfront Home and Cottages is closer to the water and has direct beach access and gazebos by the water. Normi2’s Resort has native kubo rooms and a freshwater pool for a low price.
The barangay is also a good place to start. A ten-minute drive south will take you to Urbiztondo, which is louder than La Union. For an afternoon trip, go to the Ma-Cho Temple in San Fernando, which is farther down the coast. It’s worth the short drive to Bahay na Bato, an open-air art gallery in Luna north of Taboc. It has pebble beaches and stone structures.
It’s hard not to notice how Taboc has stayed useful without becoming too complicated. The pots are still being made. You can still get to the beach. There is still no ticket booth at the base of the house on the hill.
